Missouri Backpacking

Whats Next?

2010-09-01T15:11:00.001-05:00

With the successful completion of the MR 340 it is time to get back in the woods for some relaxation. Any ideas on a trip for this winter? jm

Bear Country...Finally

2010-07-01T15:51:00.003-05:00

For the past few years the reports and sightings have been increasing around the Ozark region of the elusive black bear. The reports for the main stream public have been few and far between and it made us wonder while in the back country, do we really have to be careful...in Missouri? Well it is finally official, we are in bear country. This months issue of the Missouri Conservationist puts that item to rest and lists 10 ways to help protect yourself from the burgeoning bear population. While most of the items deal with car camping, some of the items can translate into people who are sans car and exist in the back country on their own two feet...well I guess mountain bikes as well. The first item mentioned is never feeding bears; this one is for everyone, even if you see a bear on the side of the road as you fly down any back country highway. Feeding a bear is bad and could injure someone else in the future. The next few items mentioned deal with how food is handled. In a backpacking situation, it would be best for us to begin to adopt a method of eating dinner while on the trail and continuing another 1/2 hour or so to our camp. This method would prevent the majority of food smells from being generated while in camp and subsequently next to your bed. Our group currently does not hang a bear bag, but by adding a few ounces, an ultra lightweight version could save some problems. All smellable items would be placed in the bag and hung on a rope that is positioned between two trees at least 15' high and 5' from the trunk. The last item they mention in the article is keeping your dogs on a leash. I do not own a dog and probably wouldn't take a dog along, but we have had dogs on our trips and they remain unleashed almost the entire time. The dog owner would have to take care of that issue...I for one will stay with my chickens in my backyard. Check the article here. jm

The Ozark Trail Makes the Missouri Conservationist

2010-06-15T09:34:00.004-05:00

If you do not get a copy of the Missouri Conservationist (MC), first off, you are missing out an a great publication, and secondly you probably haven't seen the June issue where the OT gets a featured article. David Stonner, photographer and writer for the MC, describes a handful of the more outstanding features of our beloved Ozark Trail. The group that regularly travels the OT and who have been the basis for this blog have experienced most of the places that David mentions. Having recently been up and across Stegall Mountain, the photo "Stars at Stegall" captures the scene beautifully. A big thank you to the Missouri Conservationist for taking the trail to Missourians who may not be aware of this enormous asset we have. Check out the article and photo gallery here. jm

5 year Recap

2010-03-19T08:54:00.008-05:00

It has been five years since this group of friends began hiking again and I thought it was time to post a collective of group photos from the trips. Aside from the 9 regular attenders, we have had 17 other people join the group for only one trip. For some, this was their first backcountry experience, while others simply didn't have time to plan an outing. It has been amazing to see the packs get lighter and the mileage per outing longer...and the moonshine container has even gone from glass to collapable water bag. I think next up will be the entire Courtois Section in two days...anybody in? Here they are:

Trace Creek-26 miles-2005

Middle Fork-22 miles-2006

Blair Creek-20 miles-2007

Karkaghne Section-28 miles-2008

Council Bluff to Bell Mountain-20 miles-2009

River to River Trail, Illinois-42 miles-2009

Current River-30 miles-2010

Current River Section OT

2010-03-09T11:20:00.023-06:00

On the morning of March 6, 2010, a group of nine hikers set off to see the entire length of the Current River Section of the Ozark Trail in two days. We had one guest hiker in tow, John Voigts, author of the River to River Trail guidebook. The remaining group members were: Jeff Moore, David Tudor, Craig Smith, Paul Caudell, Todd Whaley, Isaac Noland, Josh Heater, & Jeremy Dean. We set off under perfect blue skies with the temperature in the upper 30’s. We traveled through the tunnel under highway 60 and entered the woodlands to find a very well marked trail. We traveled through the morning, stopping occasionally to see the landscape features or to catch our breath. Some used the time to doctor the blisters that had already begun to form. This first day was quite consistent as far as scenery goes…trees, creeks, & rocky tread. We took lunch along a small creek next to the trail and took a short nap. As the day grew later we picked up the pace to summit Stegall Mountain by dusk, almost 18 miles from our starting point. We started up the mountain as the sun was starting to set. The view increased with every step and before we knew it we were looking at the summit cairn with an almost 360 degree view of the Ozarks. Photos snapped as we descended to a saddle on the east side to set up a well protected camp. The lightweight alcohol stoves boiled water and the fire exploded from the dry wood littering our camping spot. Our freeze dried concoctions devoured; we didn’t linger long around the fire before the group made their way to the warmth and comfort of the sleeping bags. We awoke on Sunday morning with overcast skies and short bursts of rain. Back on the trail, the sun came out and we cruised down to the Rocky Falls side trail where we dropped our packs. As we entered Rocky Falls, I discovered trail magic. One full ice cold Budweiser can floating in the creek…with a born on date of January 10, 2010. In no time the beer was gone and Paul, Josh, & Todd went for a swim while the rest of the crew climbed to the top of the falls…only to discover another beer! We soaked in the sun and water and made our way back to the packs and on to Klepzig Mill for lunch. We lounged on the Rhyolite, replenished our water, and continued on our way when we crossed paths with another group of hikers from the Division of Youth Services. It was fantastic to see those kids out on the trail on that beautiful day…but I felt sorry for them as they were loaded to the gills with equipment. I do not miss the days when my pack was that big and heavy. By mid afternoon we had made it to the Current River and cruised through the riparian corridor making our way to the highway 106 bridge, logging an astonishing 31 miles in 14 total hours of hiking. A special thanks to Terry McCallister who has adopted a portion of the Current River section and to the maintenance crew members, Robert, Gwen, Kathy, Jeff, and the few others who I don’t know your name, Thank You. This portion of trail is one of the best in my book. jm

Topo Maps

Updated Gear List

2010-03-03T11:23:00.003-06:00

This trip on the Current River Section will involve two new items. The first item, Gossamer Gear's Lightrek 3 Custom Trekking Poles, have been in my arsenal since Christmas and unfortunately have been slowly collecting dust. But they are out now and should be incredible based upon the reviews out there. Total weight was slightly more than advertised, but still registered at only 2.8 oz per pole. This 15 oz savings (Leki poles-21 oz) should be felt within the first few miles of the trail. The second item is one that is homemade...a Tyvek bivy sack. I have done my research when it comes to Tyvek products and did not want to invade my goose down bag with body moisture so I designed it more like a canoe, in that the moisture leaving my body can escape up thru the bag and into the atmospere. Since I will have my sil-nylon tarp above me there was no need to fully envelope my sleeping bag; more simply, I just needed the foot box and sides covered just in case rain decides to blow sideways. This reduced size alows the bivy to come in at a scant 6.45 oz. I will post pictures of this thing from the trip. My revised gear list is below...7.8 lbs base weight ain't to shabby. jm

Guest Hiker for Current River

2010-02-25T11:50:00.003-06:00

John Voigts, aka "Professor", of the River to River Trail Guidebook will be a guest hiker on our trip next weekend. This will be John's first steps on the Ozark Trail. He will be at the STL REI tonight giving a presentation on the R2R Trail, program starts at 6:30 pm. We welcome this Illinoian to Missouri...what a great trip this will be! jm

Current River Section

2010-02-08T13:52:00.001-06:00

Next trip is scheduled for March 5 thru 7 on the Current River Section of the Ozark Trail. Drop a comment if you are going so we dont leave you behind. jm

A New Blog

2010-01-04T11:26:00.004-06:00

My brothers and I have started a new blog entitled "3dudesinacanoe" that will capture our purpose and training for the upcoming MR 340 race held on the Missouri River this summer. Details and a full narrative are still being devloped but you can link it now and check in on the progress. jm

Courtois Section OT

2009-12-14T12:10:00.009-06:00

As we neared Leasburg it started to drizzle; an aspect I didn't catch in the forecast as I prepared the trip. We donned our packs and hiked south into the Huzzah Conservation Area. The rain held steady, but light, so we left the shells in our packs. We made our way through the maze of logging and MDC utility roads and down into the Courtois Valley. It was still cold and rainy as we prepared to ford the Courtois Creek. As our naked feet slipped into the water, we realized just how cold the water really was. By the time we reached the other side the frigid water had caused searing pain. I knew then that tomorrow when I came across this again, I would be leaving my shoes in place. We continued up to The Narrows and began seeing eagles. We watched as they soared up and down the river, rested in the Sycamores that lined the banks, and then repeated the process. Wiggling along The Narrows we reached the other side and dropped down into the Huzzah Valley. We continued for a few more miles and found a nice campsite below the trail. As we prepared dinner and a fire the rain began to increase. We ate fast and turned in for the night...at 7:00. I slipped under my new MLD Grace Solo Siltarp and watched as the rain bounced off. The next morning the sun was out and David and I continued southbound to review some trail that Shawn Bradley, Neil Wiggins and I had worked on almost two years before. The trail looked great, especially near the tree that Shawn had to use excessive force. We got back to camp and woke Devin up, broke camp, ate breakfast, and began our trek back to the car. Not 10 minutes into our hike we were graced with a beautiful Barred Owl swooping down through the forest. Back through The Narrows and into the Courtois Valley we were faced with the cold crossing again. This time we left our shoes. We made our way up and out of the Courtois Valley and back to the car. From car to car, this trip lasted about 26 hours and contained some of the best trail yet. The total mileage out and back was about 16. jm

Topo Map

Courtois Section OT

2009-12-11T14:14:00.002-06:00

David Tudor and I are taking our nephew out for a quick out and back on the Courtois Section this weekend. Figured we would start at the northern terminus of the OT and head south until it gets dark. This will be a great opportunity to take my new Mountain Laurel Designs Silnylon Grace Solo for a spin. I will provide a play by play when we get back. jm

Following Directions

2009-12-09T13:39:00.002-06:00

I have been following the advice of the chiropractor for more than a month now and have seen some great results in how my body feels when moving. I was granted permission to take this new body for a jaunt last weekend and ended up with my brother at the Green Rock Trail. We hiked quickly for the first mile and then began running for another 1/2 to 3/4 miles or so. We backed off and continued our quick hike pace to Melrose Rd which is about 5K in from the northern trailhead at Rockwoods Reservation. We turned around at Melrose and headed northbound. With a mile to go we opened it back up and ran the remaining distance to the car. We completed the 6 miles in just under 2 hours and I felt satisfied with how things went. Once cooled down and driving away, I did notice my knee start to have some pain...but then again I haven't done anything active in over a month, what did I expect? jm

Body Maintenance...Well Make that Overhaul

2009-11-16T15:19:00.005-06:00

For the folks that have hiked with our group, my knee problems are well documented. To all others, I have been dealing with IT Band Syndrome for more than a year now. While I have not forfeited the experience of completing an adventure, I have wanted to on more than a few occasions. After the Illinois trip it became clear that I must stop describing the issue to anyone who will listen and finally do something about it. After hours of research, I enlisted the help of my friend and chiropractor, Shawn Bradley of Bradley Chiropractic. The x-rays provided during my first visit showed the extent of the problem...a pelvis that was way out of balance.
Even to the x-ray illiterate this was obvious, since I was there when the x-rays were taken and remember standing perfectly upright, with feet exactly together. The process began with a total body evaluation that registers nerve function up and down the spine. This is coupled with x-rays and various other measurements documenting your current state. Over the past few weeks, Shawn has worked the tissue and muscles around the right side of the pelvis to loosen and align the fibers of the tendons and muscles. Last week I was finally allowed to perform three glute exercises that will begin to strengthen the weaker side. This has slowly correlated to pain in my left knee. I believe this pain to be a result of my body's shift back to center. The pain was very weak and quite different from the stabbing pain of IT Band Syndrome. Recently I was reading on Skurka's website under his failed attempts section (a section that continues to shrink in comparison to his successes) about a knee issue that prevented his success on the Long Trail in Vermont. Oddly enough, one of his remedies was to see a chiropractor to get his "hips realigned". Apparently it worked considering about six months later he embarked on the "The Great Western Loop". I will be off for another month or so before allowing myself to get back into hiking and cycling, but, hopefully the return will be without IT Band Syndrome.

River to River Trail: Trigg Tower to High Knob

2009-10-26T10:17:00.038-05:00

The day finally came for our departure. We had planned, mapped, purchased, and weighed our way to the start of great trip. Headed out of STL in driving rain, listening to what would be the Cardinals second to last game of their dismal post season showing, we settled in for the long drive to Trigg Tower. Members of this trip were Todd Whaley, Paul Caudell, David Tudor, Jeff Moore, Tim Dierking, Josh Heater, Al Evans. We would meet our eighth member at Trigg Tower, John Voigts, author of the River to River Trail Pocket Guide. Arriving in the parking lot of the tower, we spotted two tents that had been setup during a lull in the storm by John for us to use that first night. We already liked him as our first impression was that of generosity. Hand shakes all around and the cars sped off for the end of the trail. The remaining few set up a couple more tents and built a fire. The fire began to pop and flames finally stretched above the highest perched logs when a neighbor from down the road spotted us and pulled in. He offered us shelter if things got bad later in the night…what did he know that we did not? As our conversation ended, the rain came on strong, taking our fire with it. We all jumped in our tents and went to sleep as the rain began to pound. We awoke the next morning to wet gear, wet tents, and the rain continuing to make sure all became equally soaked. Gear packed and compasses pointed in the right direction, we set off for our first taste of the River to River Trail. The trail was soaked and we immediately came to terms with being wet. Most had taken precautions to keep our cores dry and since the temperature was quite decent there wasn’t too much concern for getting dangerously cold. Water crossings became easier as most opted to simply motor through each one without any regard for even searching for a rock to jump on. After a few miles we came to a train crossing where we took a break from the rain. Our surroundings were slightly different from the Ozark Mountain region that we were used to, as the terrain seemed to be more open within the forest and the valleys were slightly broader, offering increased visibility. This helped with the closed in feeling from all the rain and being stuffed inside our rain jackets. We continued on westward headed for the Lusk Creek Wilderness trailhead for night one in the backcountry. However, things didn’t go as planned. Once at the trailhead, and making 18 miles for the day, we knocked on the door of the Circle B Ranch and asked the owners if they could put us up for the night. Once inside the tack shop, we got a fire going in the stove and all our gear hung from every available hook in the place. Alcohol stoves roared as our water came to life for our freeze dried meals. A group of equestrians came in with a guitar and an impromptu jam session ensued that even featured one of our own, Paul. Connie, co-owner of the Circle B, offered to take all our clothes to the dryer in her house which resulted in us continuing the music session in our underwear. They were trail angels in deed. The next morning, the rain had stopped, the sun was out, and we were dry for the first time in over 24 hours. We thanked our new friends and headed off into Lusk Creek Wilderness, stopping at features like “Saltpeter Cave” and “Secret Canyon”. These features were off of the River to River Trail and in order to get back on track we embarked on some off trail hiking that would get us to a connector trail…however…not trusting some roads we ended up miles North of where we wanted to be. Consulting the map, we decided to perform an arduous road march that would get us to our next destination, the town of Herod. Upon entering Herod we took rest in the front yard of a house that had installed a hand pump to a natural spring. We filled up on the fresh water and continued on our way. A short distance later we entered Garden of the Gods Wilderness Area. We had met some hikers on the south side of Herod who told us of a great camping spot high on a bluff a few miles into Garden of the Gods. Once we saw the site, we knew this was the spot they spoke of…and we dropped our packs having completed only about 13 miles that day. The view from our camp was long, and the smell of dinner lulled us into a lucid state. We started a fire and were able to find poor reception to listen to the final game of the Cardinals season; soon after we turned in for the night. We awoke the next morning to the bright sun, packed up, and headed out for the main attraction at Garden of the Gods. A few hours later we were climbing and jumping on the ancient sand beaches overlooking a sea of green deciduous. Lunch time came and went as the hordes of people peered fearlessly over the edges to experience the scene for themselves. A Forest Service employee named Jim talked mountain lions with us for a while and then inquired about the trail conditions we experienced over the past 38 miles. Our cars were only 6 miles away, so we took one last look and plunged back into the forest, cruising past miles of sandstone walls. The closer we got to the end, the more apparent it was that this stretch was heavily used by horses. The trail had become very muddy and rutted, with a criss-cross of paths that tried to avoid the deeper mud pits. We emerged from the forest and into a scene from the old west at High Knob campground. A combination RV and horse trailer vehicle dominated the field with tied up horses everywhere. We said hello as we passed while putting our trekking poles on pause. We made it to High Knob and took some final pictures of our packs before heading home for dinner. Our experience on the River to River Trail had come and gone, but future trips are already in the works. Thanks to Todd and John for planning the trip and leading the group through these great places. jm

Topo Maps

Gear List

2009-08-27T11:08:00.003-05:00

It has been a long time since the last post but there really hasn’t been much going on in the way of backpacking. However, I have been able to refine my gear list…in particular the “Clothing Worn” category. I have decided to abandon the Mountain Hardware zip off pants due to their weight and instead go to the Patagonia GI 2 pant with an underwear/short option. I haven’t picked up the shorts yet but will go with either the Go Lite Stride Short or the Beartooth Merino Wool Short offered by Backpackinglight.com. Either way, this new set up will offer greater versatility and reduced weight…both very good things. The Illinois trip is fast approaching and will offer a great venue for testing the new set up. Haven’t heard much commitment about this trip…so check your calendar and drop a comment. jm

John Roth

2009-07-07T07:56:00.001-05:00

John, thank you for teaching me to build trail on that cold day in December. You will be greatly missed. jm

My New Scales

2009-06-13T09:07:00.005-05:00

I have finally obtained a scale to weigh my equipment at home. Up to this point I have utilized the mail scale at work but that set up was definitely not ideal. I actually received two scales so if anyone would like to borrow one to get a baseline gear weight just let me know.jm

The Green Rock Trail

2009-06-08T13:50:00.010-05:00

I had the pleasure of pounding out The Green Rock Trail on Saturday. I had a full three season pack with me…that is in Missouri terms all seasons except summer. Base pack weight was 9.7 pounds with about 1 pound of food and a 1 liter Platypus. I had my new Go Lite Sun Dragons shoes on and 20 miles in front of me. The morning started off perfectly cool and quiet, but a short distance in I started passing people around every corner.It turns out that the city of Wildwood had an outdoor event that day that was well attended, considering I passed 77 people before the 5 mile mark. I made it to the southern terminus by 12:00 pm (3 hours 15 minutes one way) and had a quick lunch. Back on the trail and headed northbound, I caught up with Boy Scout Troop 680 and hiked with them for 2 slow miles at which point I continued on solo. The last person I encountered was Bob Banker who was on his 28th mile of the day and in training mode for the Leadville 100 this August in Colorado. I wished him luck and motored on down the trail. It was 5:00 pm by the time I hit the parking lot at Rockwoods Reservation, but I think, had I not hiked with the scouts, I would have been on target for a 6 ½ hour round trip. This was a great training run for our upcoming trip to Illinois but my legs still ache as I type this 2 days later…I need to train more. Check the Skurka shot below.jm

Green Rock Trail

2009-06-03T08:54:00.006-05:00

This weekend I will be parking my car at Rockwoods Reservation and doing a 20 mile out and back of the Greek Rock Trail. I will be bringing a full pack and simulating a day from our upcoming trip in Illinois. 8 am on Saturday is the start time. Hope to see someone else there. jm

Topo Maps

Karkaghne Video

2009-05-12T12:56:00.003-05:00

A new video has been added to You Tube highlighting our scorching experience on the Ozark Trail in August 2008. Compilation courtesy of cock hammer. Check it out here.

Illlinois Bound: October 8-11, 2009

2009-04-02T14:33:00.031-05:00

The River to River Trail hike will take place October 8th to the 11th and will be roughly 49 miles long, starting at Trigg Tower and ending at Pounds Hollow Lake. We’ll begin on a Thursday night, so everyone who works Mondays thru Fridays will have to take off that Friday (the 9th). Depending on how many people we have going we’ll either shuttle vehicles around or just save time and spend $25 on a shuttle service the River to River Trail Society offers. Hikers will fend for themselves for food (three full days worth). I’ll be offering a few menu selections from the Lipsmackin’ Backpacking book that Paul Caudell introduced on the last trip and was a big, delicious hit. To me this is a tastier, lighter weight, and cost effective solution to trail food. I’ll be dehydrating ingredients and if anyone else coming would like to volunteer their food dehydrators that’s cool. We’ll also coordinate so that not everyone has to carry first aid kits, water filter pumps, repair kits, etc. The Shawnee Forest is a lush wilderness with a variety of steep climbs, rock outcroppings, and open areas with lakes and creeks. The first night we can camp at Trigg Tower, a fire tower with an awesome view, or if we’re feeling ambitious we can hike for an hour to Millstone Lake and camp there, shaving a few miles off our journey. The first day would be fifteen to eighteen miles of hiking and we’ll see Ruby Falls, Petticoat Junction, Eddyville, a cool place called Indian Kitchen and then enter the Lusk Creek Wilderness to see Bowed Creek Crossing and Owl’s Bluff Lookout. We can camp the second night at a place called Secret Canyon. The second day of hiking will be a long mile day, covering about nineteen miles. We’ll pass thru a couple camps, we’ll see an old cemetery and church, and finally end the day camping somewhere around Herod. The third and final day will be the low mile day and the highlight of the trip as we pass the spectacular rock formations at the Garden of the Gods, then to the lookout tower at High Knob Campground, more cool rocks at Rim Rock, and ending at thebeautiful Pounds Hollow Lake where we’ll find our vehicles. I’m still working with the Topo mapping software I bought to make the maps, which will be very cool. In the mean time, here are some pictures! Later, Todd Whaley

The Ending at High Knob

Topo Maps Coming Soon!

Council Bluff to Bell Mountain: A Snowy Delight

2009-03-31T13:58:00.014-05:00

We finally got all our schedules together and executed a fine weekend in the Ozark Mountains. The evening of February 27th was a mild 38 degrees as we set up camp at our starting point, Council Bluff Lake. Members of this trip were: David Tudor, Isaac Noland, Neil Wiggins, Jeremy Dean, Matt Wagener, Josh Heater, Todd Whaley, and Paul Caudell. We broke camp early the next morning and weighed our packs with a digital fish scale in the parking lot. Pack weights (including food and water) varied wildly with the lightest being Todd’s pack at 17.2 lbs and the heaviest being David’s pack at 43 lbs. We headed off around the lake to meet the connector trail to the Trace Creek Section passing a large group of equestrians along the way. We broke south at the OT junction and tore up the miles, up and over 32 Highway and on towards Ottery Creek. Snow fellthroughout the morning and into the afternoon creating a total accumulation of about ½” to ¾”. Once down in the Ottery Creek Valley, the temperatures began to fall and it was time to cross the creek. First we searched up and down for a decent crossing point. Since we didn’t find anything that would guarantee a dry crossing, we hauled a large log over to a cliff that Heater had chosen. Down went the log which then fell perfectly across Ottery Creek. First man across Todd easily skipped across the log and as his foot hit the other side, the log twisted and immediately floated downstream. Thanks Todd. Next we found a tree that had grown over the creek. I dropped my pack and poles and climbed onto the tree and scooted across the creek to safety. Neil “tossed” my platypus water bottles across but in his excitement, the force of his throw skewered one on a tree. Finally further upstream we found a crossing that would suffice for the rest of the crew. One by one they jumped across until only Jeremy and Jack the dog remained. The choreography couldn’t have been more perfect. On a count of 3 Jack was heaved, legs outstretched, across the Ottery Creek and into the arms of his owner. Now all across we set up camp at the Taum Sauk trailhead on Highway A and settled in to what was going to be a coldnight. We awoke the next morning to temperatures in the low teens. All water bottles were frozen and the cold water from the creek took more denatured alcohol than expected to boil the water for breakfast. We got a late start but headed up Bell Mountain as the morning sun melted the snow on the rhyolite trail. The elevation gain was great and the layers immediately began to come off. Passing through some beautiful vistas looking south, we turned off the Ozark trail and headed North up to the peak of Bell Mountain. Once at the top we broke for lunch and enjoyed the view of the new Taum Sauk Reservoir now fully under construction. A quick decent from the summit and out to the cars at CC Road ended a spectacular experience through the St. Francois Mountains. Thanks to all of those in attendance. Enjoy the great video...compliments of the “cock hammer.” jm

Topo Maps

Ozark Trail Google Earth Fly-By

2009-03-26T10:14:00.004-05:00

Check out the new video from the Ozark Trail website showing all 227.5 miles of continuous trail through Missouri here.

Frost Flowers

2009-01-09T08:27:00.005-06:00

There have been many postings of frost flower pictures around the blogosphere lately so I figured I would post ours. This was captured by Jeremy Dean on the Blair Creek Section trip.

Ozark Trail Thru-Hike???

2008-12-26T08:00:00.004-06:00

Alright, I have been throwing this idea out to the group over a couple of trips now but 2009 is almost here and I thought I would officially put the idea in writing...thru-hike the entire Ozark Trail in 8 days. Even as I write this I don't know how I could do it, but it would be a great trip to train for and then eventually accomplish. The plan would be to do this mid to late September when the days are still quite long and not too hot (unless Global Warming gets crazy). We could possibly leave on a Friday night and begin the next morning. Saturday to Saturday would give you 8 full hiking days. On to distance (hiking South to North)...using the mileage listed on the OTA website and deducting the mileage that won't be traveled on the Trace Creek (7 miles or so deviate from the main trail and head west to Taum Sauk, we would pick up the Trace after completing the Middle Fork), the trip would be about 225 miles. Divided out over 8 days you get 28 miles per day! Thats crazy, but many people are doing this out west on the PCT & CDT and to the east on the AT. If many other people can do this at elevation, we could surely train and do this 1000 feet above sea level.

Mileage:
South To North Sections and Mileage:
Eleven Point - 30
Between the Rivers - 30
Current River - 30
Blair Creek - 26
Karkaghne - 28.3
Middle Fork - 22.1
Trace Creek - 19
Courtois - 40

Think about it. jm

Maybe Matt Blunt Isn't So Bad Afterall!

2008-12-22T10:13:00.008-06:00

I know that over the past few years I haven't really had many nice things to say about our exiting governor Matt Blunt, but it seems that he is trying hard to change my mind in the last days before he leaves office. If you haven't visited the Ozark Trail Association website lately, they have announced that they have received $99,000 in grant money that will be used for various trail building projects throughout the current trail. This includes completion of the Courtois Gap and to help rebuild the section lost due to the Taum Sauk reservoir collapse. The money, the OTA states, will also be used for 18 new miles but as to where they were not specific. Check out the OTA link for more information: http://www.ozarktrail.com/

On another note, there are many trail building activities scheduled in the upcoming months for anyone who would like to go. Almost a year ago, Neil Wiggins, Shawn Bradley and I joined a trail building party that completed .8 miles of the Courtois Gap trail. This experience was by far the best way to experience the Ozark Trail, actually touching the trail with your hands. Check the pics below for some action shots of Shawn tearing it up. Maybe after our hike at the end of January we can get a group together to join the fun. jm

Topo Map: North Courtois Section OT

Council Bluff to Bell Mountain: Update: Feb 27-March1

2008-12-15T12:59:00.003-06:00

The next trip for the group will be from Council Bluff to Bell Mountain. Total mileage for this trip will be about 21.1 miles. We will leave from our usual spot Friday night around 5-6 pm and return Sunday evening. Everyone will be on their own for food this time because there will be a small chance that a cancellation will occur due to extreme weather. If the lows will be less than 15 degrees then it will be postponed until a later date. Choose your food wisely...and get your penny stoves ready for some action. See maps below...I figured we would start at Council Bluff boat dock and head counter clockwise to pick up the connector trail to the Trace Creek.

Topo Maps

Karkaghne Section Videos

2008-12-15T09:18:00.000-06:00

Penny Stoves

Sutton Bluff Cliff Jumper

A Heater Moment

Karkaghne Section: Ozark Trail

2008-12-13T09:23:00.000-06:00

It was finally time to put all of the hard work in reducing pack weight to the test. The 28 mile Karkaghne Section had been looming over our group since we skipped it for the shorter Blair Creek trip and it was time to get our walk on. But, instead of choosing the more comfortable weather of a perfect Missouri fall, we decided to tackle it in the heat and humidity of August. We all justified the decision with the many possibilities for cooling off in the streams and creeks we were going to cross. Members of this trip were, John Heater, Courtney Peebles, Craig Smith, Todd Whaley and Isaac Noland. We fired the alcohol stoves for some morning oatmeal before gaining southbound momentum towards our first major stopping point, and glorious swimming hole of the West Fork of the Black River. The humidity was thick as we pushed our way through the spider webs and over grown undergrowth. At every stream crossing we cooled our faces and exposed skin. We reached the overlook of Sutton Bluff and couldn’t wait to get into the water. Once we were at the waters edge, we stripped down to our underwear and jumped in. Even though there was a large group of women partying it up further down the gravel bar we had to do what we had to do. We swam in the crystal clear water and then headed up to the rope swing. There was a large cliff that people were jumping from and Todd climbed the cliff to partake. We returned to our packs, ate lunch, and then went up stream from the party people to pump some cleaner water. We took off from Sutton Bluff and went up and up and up. The trail took us along some of the steepest trail that we have experienced so far on our trips with quick glances of the cold water of the West Fork below. After reaching the top of the ridge, we dove back down and into the valley of Bee Fork Creek where we called it quits and set up camp. We spent the first few hours unwinding and cooling down again in the water of the creek, picked some ripe cherries that Todd discovered, and set up out tents on the sandy beach. Evening came and the alcohol stoves roared into action heating our water for some dehydrated beef stew, a perfect hot meal for a hot and humid day. Heater got the fire going and we dozed off to sleep. The next morning we stretched out our sore muscles and geared up for another 14 miles through the thick haze of late August. The second portion of the trail seemed to have many more spider webs and seed ticks…by this point, everyone’s legs were covered in seed ticks. A little while later, Craig and I got stung by some yellow jackets that were kicked up by hikers in the front. The afternoon seemed to fly by and we reached our vehicles at 72 & P HWY about 4:00. Our legs began to itch feverishly with all the fresh tick bites so we high-tailed it back to the start where we had to pick up our last car and take one last dip in the stream before heading home. This trip was amazing in the fact that Courtney, who had never formally camped before in his life, hiked 28 miles in 2 days amidst the sticky August weather. Even more amazing is that we all made it with little more than mere seed tick injuries (even though Craig went to the doctor after he got home). My pack weight was amazing and my gear could not have functioned any better. Next time I think we should stick to the regular Missouri hiking season…any month besides August. jm

Topo Maps

Joining the Freakshow

2008-12-10T12:12:00.000-06:00

Being happy with my “lightweight” system that I had built over the past 3 trips, I decided one day to check out “ultra-lightweight” videos on You Tube and just see what the freak show had to offer. I then made one of the most profound discoveries of my adult life…Andrew Skurka. If you don’t already know who he is or heard me blab on and on about this guy I have linked his website to this blog. His take on ultra-lightweight backpacking is that it correlates to how we should be living our lives, as a minimalist; and our overall human impact on nature can be reduced. Through the information on his website I started taking note of his gear lists. This is where I discovered his use of the denatured alcohol stove. Although Skurka uses a cat food can stove, and I prefer the penny stove, the end result is the same…major reduction in pack weight by making some equipment yourself. Once I found the penny stove instructions I became obsessed, spending every evening for more than a month in my shop pouring Heineken down the drain to make more stoves. My wife actually developed a problem with this...(I had to ask for her forgiveness). Some of you have benefited from this since I have given them all away. Go to the site and download the instructions at: http://www.csun.edu/~mjurey/stoveinstruct.html. Next, I bought the same pack as Skurka was using, the GoLite Jam 2, which weighs in about 1.7 pounds. This slashed nearly 4 pounds from my overall pack weight which currently was a tank…the Camptrails Wilderness. The quest was on for a sub 10 pound pack for all seasons in Missouri. Changing my water bottles over to Platypus bottles and dropping the Katadyn filter for the lighter Aqua Mira reduced almost another 2 pounds. Lastly and most hard to obtain of all was my sleeping bag. Fortunately I was able to procure one through a generous Christmas present…the Western Mountaineering Versalite Super was now in my pack. I had made a spreadsheet to capture all the weights of the items on my gear list. I would bring a few items to work and weigh them on the postage scale which actually turned out to be quite accurate. The next profound discovery was the “Backpacking Gear Weight Calculator”, http://www.backpacking.net/featured3.html. This is the best way to capture all your items in your arsenal and then turn them on or off depending upon the season or type of journey. Down load it and use it. All of this research, weighing, obsessing and tweaking finally has my base pack weight at about 9 pounds…oh yeah base pack weight is weight of the pack without food and water. The freak show (ultra-lightweight backpackers) turns out to be the best thing that has happened since getting back in the swing that fall of 2005. It’s time to go on another trip…jm.

Blair Creek: Ozark Trail

2008-12-09T10:57:00.001-06:00

The continuation of the Ozark Trail for our group would have logically been the Karkaghne Section but there was not too much excitement for a 28 mile trip yet. And since we had some new faces that were onboard we decided to make it a short one. We jumped down a section to the Blair Creek which runs from 72 & P HWY down to the Current River and ends within the Ozark National Scenic Riverways at Owls Bend. In order to keep this trip short we started at the 6 mile parking lot to make the final mileage around 20 miles. Members of this trip were David Moore, Miles Urbini, Nate Quest, Todd Whaley, David Tudor, Neil Wiggins, Isaac Noland, Jeremiah Stutte, Jeremy Dean and Tony Rocca. We struck camp early Saturday morning, posed for a group photo and headed southward past the trail kiosk. We dropped elevation and entered the Blair Creek valley. The trail wound just above the creek for some time and then we cut to the west and down a beautiful ridge. This ridge is very prominent on the topo map and dropped us back into the creek valley. We took lunch at an old ice house or root cellar, some sort of concrete building that was cut into the adjacent hill. Our next stop was Harmon Springs, a large shallow lake with an old concrete building at its source. From here we crossed a gorgeous lowland field with waste high grass and found a campsite just past this on the Blair Creek. This November was quite mild and Nate and I decided to take a very short refreshing dip in the frigid water. Our rocky campsite wasn’t the most comfortable but the sound of the creek all night was an added bonus. We cooked a group meal and then settled into a roaring fire as the temperature began to dive. The following morning we awoke to ice in the water bottles and beautiful ice blossoms on some plants within the campsite; this I have never experienced before. Sunday took us through an old cemetery and a great wooden outhouse which most of us used. The outhouse came complete with a stash of leaves and sticks…we brought our own toilet paper, however, and left the stash for the locals. We left the Blair Creek Valley and headed due south towards the Current River, passing a cave that had been completely blocked by steel bars. The trail continued higher in elevation and then through some pine forests. Without any warning we blasted out onto a huge overlook of the Current River and the great Owls Bend. This moment was the best so far of the Ozark Trail and we dropped our packs and enjoyed the scenery for over an hour. Once back on the trail it was an easy downhill mile into the National Park Service area and to the vehicles. We loaded up the cars and headed back to the trailhead to grab the remaining vehicle and then booked it to the Family Restaurant for the buffet…only to be let down…the buffet was not up due to the retiling of the buffet area, maybe next time. This trip was by far the most scenic since it got you up and out of the forest for some long views. Missouri forest is absolutely beautiful but breaking the monotony of the forest envelope can be ecstatic. We experienced lowland forest, lowland grass fields, creek valleys, ridge descents and accents, caves, cliffs, glades, frost flowers and a huge scenic overlook of the Current River. This was the first trip with the trekking poles and I thought they worked great and will stay on the gear list. Overall pack weight for this trip was about 18 pounds. It won’t be another year until the next trip! Stay tuned. jm

Topo Maps

Lightweight Backpacking

2008-12-08T14:08:00.000-06:00

It was after the Middle Fork section that I got back into my “gear head” mode of years past. Even during the climbing days I would thrift shop for climbing clothes instead of getting the latest Prana or Mountain Hardware zip-t/slash pocket/chin chamois featured scarf. Through internet research I stumbled upon the “lightweight vs ultra-lightweight” controversy. I felt at the time that I wasn’t going to ever be apart of the ultra-lightweight (freak show) movement and focused mainly on gear selection. The site that I found most helpful was http://www.backpacking.net/. This site had great articles on the lightweight movement, one of which I adopted upon reading, trekking poles. In high school, my dad, brothers, Jamie Papin and I were on a three day trip on the Appalachian Trail inside the Great Smoky Mountains National Park when my dad developed severe knee pain. We decided to cut the trip short and perform a re-route down another trail, but in order to get him out without calling on an airlift; we cut two small saplings down which he used as natural trekking poles (the saplings were obtained well off trail and this was an emergency, so don’t give me any tree hugger crap!). He was able to get out under his own weight but the concept of trekking poles made sense. So I bought a pair off of eBay after the Middle Fork section. The other change that I made during this time was clothing. I streamlined my outdoor wardrobe to very specific items that would be part of a layering system. Any part of the complete system could be utilized depending upon the season in which we were to be in. For Christmas I picked up a MSR pocket rocket which reduced pack weight by another pound. I believe my pack was in the 18 pound range by this point which was almost perfect for the lightweight backpacking movement, but… even great gear does you no good sitting on a shelf. We needed another trip. jm

Middle Fork: Ozark Trail

2008-12-03T10:35:00.000-06:00

Our second trip was on the newly opened 24 mile Middle Fork section of the Ozark Trail. The official start to this section is actually at an intersection with the Trace Creek Section which is crossed a short distance south of the Council Bluff turn off. A short mile or so from this intersection is the parking lot trailhead at HWY DD which is where we set up camp Friday night. Members of this trip were Ron Mueller, Isaac Noland, Dave Tudor, Ben Nicholson, Shawn Bradley, Jeremy Dean, Neil Wiggins, Josh Heater and Fly. This day just happened to be the first day of firearms deer season (my fault) so we came equipped with hunter orange, although we didn't really have an appropriate amount visible. This trail, being of modern design, was well marked and flowed very well, complete with many Missouri vistas. We came across one oddity, however…a car in the middle of the forest with no obvious source of its entrance. We posed for a few pictures, tried to drive it, then continued south. We camped high in a clear cut at about the 12 mile point. Shawn wanted to dry his boots out by the fire that evening because of an earlier misstep during a stream crossing, so he set them up to get the most heat from the fire. Since this was his first backpacking trip...or camping trip ever, we warned him against his decision to place them right next to the fire. Not paying attention...he set them on fire. Damage was minimal and he learned some great lessons, fire is hot and rubber burns. We struck camp early the next morning and kept our southbound heading finishing the trail in early afternoon at J HWY in Oates, Missouri. The finish line for this trip is the starting point of the Karkaghne Section which will be saved for another day. On a personal note, I was able to shave off about 13 pounds from my pack since the first trip. I had traded out my 4 season tent for a Sierra Designs Clip Flashlight and simply left stuff at home. Final base pack weight (no food or water) for this trip was about 22 pounds. jm

Topo Maps

Trace Creek: Ozark Trail

2008-12-02T16:06:00.000-06:00

The first weekend of November 2005 was the opening trip to the new phase of wilderness experiences. We choose the 26 mile long Trace Creek Section of the Ozark Trail. Members of this trip were Jon Mesh, Dave Tudor, Justin Powell, Isaac Noland, Dave Costenaro, Jacob Van Elswyk, Josh Heater and Fly. Since this was my first trip back into the forest with some decent mileage planned, I figured it best to take as many things as possible. My pack weighed in the neighborhood of 35 pounds. The 4 season 11 pound tent kept the beautiful cloudless sky from soaking my equipment and my 3 pound "river crossing" sandals kept my feet safe while fording the raging rivers Missouri had to offer. My 2 pound white gas stove heated our water in no time flat and the endless pounds of fresh fruit helped fuel our bodies onward. (2008 update...many things have changed since this trip). We started at the Hazel Creek campground supported by the Mark Twain National Forest off of Z HWY. This campground, it turns out, is THE party spot for the locals. While this trip had no major mishaps, I returned 2 years later to a party that involved shotguns and many, many muffler-less four wheelers. But I digress... we took off early Saturday morning on the peak day of the fall colors. We took a southbound bearing and cruised through the Hazel Creek valley crushing the newly fallen leaves under our boots. We took our tuna lunch break at midday and then resumed our travels. At around the 13 mile mark we began looking for our campsite. The information on the Ozark Trail website spoke of a secluded spot to the right of the trail under a pine tree and next to a spring. In the waning light we stumbled on the short side trail that led to the private campsite. There was a magnificent tree under which we pitched our tents and the spring provided an endless supply of fresh water for drinking and cooking. The next morning we awoke to sore muscles and really disgusting dehydrated eggs. After pumping water and striking camp we were back on the trail hoping that some movement would loosen up the muscles which we used up the previous day. After a mile or so we crossed the side trail that marked the start of the Middle Fork section. We passed this up and made it to 32 HWY where we unloaded two of our members who were unable to make the rest of the journey and promised we'd come back for them when we reached the end. The rest of us dropped our packs, made a day pack with plenty of water, headlamps and toilet paper, and continued towards Ottery Creek. The terrain changed tremendously after 32 HWY since this road represented a sort of Missouri Divide, now water flowed towards Arkansas and not St. Louis. Every hour we rotated who carried the pack and made it to the vehicles at Ottery Creek in the twilight of that Sunday evening. We jumped in the vehicles and headed back to pick up our packs and energy challenged friends. Back in Potosi we stumbled upon a tradition of eating at the Family Restaurant buffet. Thanks to all who attended this great event, there will be many more. jm

Topo Maps

Trailhead

2008-12-02T14:52:00.000-06:00

I have thought about this for quite some time...a place to put our adventures into words and post a few pictures of the beautiful Missouri back country we head off into a few times a year. I declare this blog officially born.
The backpacking trips started in 2005 with a desire to get back into a hobby I participated in as a Scout. Through Scouts, trails like the Taum Sauk, John J. Audubon, Beaumont Loop, and Philmont became well traveled by our troop, 721. These experiences helped cultivate a deep desire to be self sufficient in the forest and offered me a comfortable place for renewal. Map, knot, fire building, and first aid skills took deep root in me during those early years of my life. After Eagle I jumped ship and hung up the backpack. I focused on everything else...climbing, college, Holiday Decor, marriage, children to name a few, but it was time to get back into the forest. This time I had new eyes...I wanted to be well versed in my skills so I could teach them to my children.
I reached out to a few close friends that shared similar interests and the trips began. Lets first start with the past trips and then plan for the future. jm