Local Treks: Hiking Missouri & More

Check out this great new source for hiking and backpacking trail information in Missouri and Illinois. Plenty of photos, trail beta and links to any and all information that could be helpful to plan your next trip. http://www.localtrekshiking.com/ 

Whats Next?

With the successful completion of the MR 340 it is time to get back in the woods for some relaxation. Any ideas on a trip for this winter? jm

Bear Country...Finally

For the past few years the reports and sightings have been increasing around the Ozark region of the elusive black bear. The reports for the main stream public have been few and far between and it made us wonder while in the back country, do we really have to be careful...in Missouri? Well it is finally official, we are in bear country. This months issue of the Missouri Conservationist puts that item to rest and lists 10 ways to help protect yourself from the burgeoning bear population. While most of the items deal with car camping, some of the items can translate into people who are sans car and exist in the back country on their own two feet...well I guess mountain bikes as well. The first item mentioned is never feeding bears; this one is for everyone, even if you see a bear on the side of the road as you fly down any back country highway. Feeding a bear is bad and could injure someone else in the future. The next few items mentioned deal with how food is handled. In a backpacking situation, it would be best for us to begin to adopt a method of eating dinner while on the trail and continuing another 1/2 hour or so to our camp. This method would prevent the majority of food smells from being generated while in camp and subsequently next to your bed. Our group currently does not hang a bear bag, but by adding a few ounces, an ultra lightweight version could save some problems. All smellable items would be placed in the bag and hung on a rope that is positioned between two trees at least 15' high and 5' from the trunk. The last item they mention in the article is keeping your dogs on a leash. I do not own a dog and probably wouldn't take a dog along, but we have had dogs on our trips and they remain unleashed almost the entire time. The dog owner would have to take care of that issue...I for one will stay with my chickens in my backyard. Check the article here. jm

The Ozark Trail Makes the Missouri Conservationist

If you do not get a copy of the Missouri Conservationist (MC), first off, you are missing out an a great publication, and secondly you probably haven't seen the June issue where the OT gets a featured article. David Stonner, photographer and writer for the MC, describes a handful of the more outstanding features of our beloved Ozark Trail. The group that regularly travels the OT and who have been the basis for this blog have experienced most of the places that David mentions. Having recently been up and across Stegall Mountain, the photo "Stars at Stegall" captures the scene beautifully. A big thank you to the Missouri Conservationist for taking the trail to Missourians who may not be aware of this enormous asset we have. Check out the article and photo gallery here. jm

5 year Recap

It has been five years since this group of friends began hiking again and I thought it was time to post a collective of group photos from the trips. Aside from the 9 regular attenders, we have had 17 other people join the group for only one trip. For some, this was their first backcountry experience, while others simply didn't have time to plan an outing. It has been amazing to see the packs get lighter and the mileage per outing longer...and the moonshine container has even gone from glass to collapable water bag. I think next up will be the entire Courtois Section in two days...anybody in? Here they are:

Trace Creek-26 miles-2005


Middle Fork-22 miles-2006


Blair Creek-20 miles-2007


Karkaghne Section-28 miles-2008


Council Bluff to Bell Mountain-20 miles-2009


River to River Trail, Illinois-42 miles-2009


Current River-30 miles-2010

Current River Section OT

On the morning of March 6, 2010, a group of nine hikers set off to see the entire length of the Current River Section of the Ozark Trail in two days. We had one guest hiker in tow, John Voigts, author of the River to River Trail guidebook. The remaining group members were: Jeff Moore, David Tudor, Craig Smith, Paul Caudell, Todd Whaley, Isaac Noland, Josh Heater, & Jeremy Dean. We set off under perfect blue skies with the temperature in the upper 30’s. We traveled through the tunnel under highway 60 and entered the woodlands to find a very well marked trail. We traveled through the morning, stopping occasionally to see the landscape features or to catch our breath. Some used the time to doctor the blisters that had already begun to form. This first day was quite consistent as far as scenery goes…trees, creeks, & rocky tread. We took lunch along a small creek next to the trail and took a short nap. As the day grew later we picked up the pace to summit Stegall Mountain by dusk, almost 18 miles from our starting point. We started up the mountain as the sun was starting to set. The view increased with every step and before we knew it we were looking at the summit cairn with an almost 360 degree view of the Ozarks. Photos snapped as we descended to a saddle on the east side to set up a well protected camp. The lightweight alcohol stoves boiled water and the fire exploded from the dry wood littering our camping spot. Our freeze dried concoctions devoured; we didn’t linger long around the fire before the group made their way to the warmth and comfort of the sleeping bags. We awoke on Sunday morning with overcast skies and short bursts of rain. Back on the trail, the sun came out and we cruised down to the Rocky Falls side trail where we dropped our packs. As we entered Rocky Falls, I discovered trail magic. One full ice cold Budweiser can floating in the creek…with a born on date of January 10, 2010. In no time the beer was gone and Paul, Josh, & Todd went for a swim while the rest of the crew climbed to the top of the falls…only to discover another beer! We soaked in the sun and water and made our way back to the packs and on to Klepzig Mill for lunch. We lounged on the Rhyolite, replenished our water, and continued on our way when we crossed paths with another group of hikers from the Division of Youth Services. It was fantastic to see those kids out on the trail on that beautiful day…but I felt sorry for them as they were loaded to the gills with equipment. I do not miss the days when my pack was that big and heavy. By mid afternoon we had made it to the Current River and cruised through the riparian corridor making our way to the highway 106 bridge, logging an astonishing 31 miles in 14 total hours of hiking. A special thanks to Terry McCallister who has adopted a portion of the Current River section and to the maintenance crew members, Robert, Gwen, Kathy, Jeff, and the few others who I don’t know your name, Thank You. This portion of trail is one of the best in my book. jm

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Topo Maps

Updated Gear List

This trip on the Current River Section will involve two new items. The first item, Gossamer Gear's Lightrek 3 Custom Trekking Poles, have been in my arsenal since Christmas and unfortunately have been slowly collecting dust. But they are out now and should be incredible based upon the reviews out there. Total weight was slightly more than advertised, but still registered at only 2.8 oz per pole. This 15 oz savings (Leki poles-21 oz) should be felt within the first few miles of the trail. The second item is one that is homemade...a Tyvek bivy sack. I have done my research when it comes to Tyvek products and did not want to invade my goose down bag with body moisture so I designed it more like a canoe, in that the moisture leaving my body can escape up thru the bag and into the atmospere. Since I will have my sil-nylon tarp above me there was no need to fully envelope my sleeping bag; more simply, I just needed the foot box and sides covered just in case rain decides to blow sideways. This reduced size alows the bivy to come in at a scant 6.45 oz. I will post pictures of this thing from the trip. My revised gear list is below...7.8 lbs base weight ain't to shabby. jm

Guest Hiker for Current River

John Voigts, aka "Professor", of the River to River Trail Guidebook will be a guest hiker on our trip next weekend. This will be John's first steps on the Ozark Trail. He will be at the STL REI tonight giving a presentation on the R2R Trail, program starts at 6:30 pm. We welcome this Illinoian to Missouri...what a great trip this will be! jm

Current River Section

Next trip is scheduled for March 5 thru 7 on the Current River Section of the Ozark Trail. Drop a comment if you are going so we dont leave you behind. jm

A New Blog

My brothers and I have started a new blog entitled "3dudesinacanoe" that will capture our purpose and training for the upcoming MR 340 race held on the Missouri River this summer. Details and a full narrative are still being devloped but you can link it now and check in on the progress. jm

Courtois Section OT

As we neared Leasburg it started to drizzle; an aspect I didn't catch in the forecast as I prepared the trip. We donned our packs and hiked south into the Huzzah Conservation Area. The rain held steady, but light, so we left the shells in our packs. We made our way through the maze of logging and MDC utility roads and down into the Courtois Valley. It was still cold and rainy as we prepared to ford the Courtois Creek. As our naked feet slipped into the water, we realized just how cold the water really was. By the time we reached the other side the frigid water had caused searing pain. I knew then that tomorrow when I came across this again, I would be leaving my shoes in place. We continued up to The Narrows and began seeing eagles. We watched as they soared up and down the river, rested in the Sycamores that lined the banks, and then repeated the process. Wiggling along The Narrows we reached the other side and dropped down into the Huzzah Valley. We continued for a few more miles and found a nice campsite below the trail. As we prepared dinner and a fire the rain began to increase. We ate fast and turned in for the night...at 7:00. I slipped under my new MLD Grace Solo Siltarp and watched as the rain bounced off. The next morning the sun was out and David and I continued southbound to review some trail that Shawn Bradley, Neil Wiggins and I had worked on almost two years before. The trail looked great, especially near the tree that Shawn had to use excessive force. We got back to camp and woke Devin up, broke camp, ate breakfast, and began our trek back to the car. Not 10 minutes into our hike we were graced with a beautiful Barred Owl swooping down through the forest. Back through The Narrows and into the Courtois Valley we were faced with the cold crossing again. This time we left our shoes. We made our way up and out of the Courtois Valley and back to the car. From car to car, this trip lasted about 26 hours and contained some of the best trail yet. The total mileage out and back was about 16. jm

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Topo Map

Courtois Section OT

David Tudor and I are taking our nephew out for a quick out and back on the Courtois Section this weekend. Figured we would start at the northern terminus of the OT and head south until it gets dark. This will be a great opportunity to take my new Mountain Laurel Designs Silnylon Grace Solo for a spin. I will provide a play by play when we get back. jm

Following Directions

I have been following the advice of the chiropractor for more than a month now and have seen some great results in how my body feels when moving. I was granted permission to take this new body for a jaunt last weekend and ended up with my brother at the Green Rock Trail. We hiked quickly for the first mile and then began running for another 1/2 to 3/4 miles or so. We backed off and continued our quick hike pace to Melrose Rd which is about 5K in from the northern trailhead at Rockwoods Reservation. We turned around at Melrose and headed northbound. With a mile to go we opened it back up and ran the remaining distance to the car. We completed the 6 miles in just under 2 hours and I felt satisfied with how things went. Once cooled down and driving away, I did notice my knee start to have some pain...but then again I haven't done anything active in over a month, what did I expect? jm

Body Maintenance...Well Make that Overhaul

For the folks that have hiked with our group, my knee problems are well documented. To all others, I have been dealing with IT Band Syndrome for more than a year now. While I have not forfeited the experience of completing an adventure, I have wanted to on more than a few occasions. After the Illinois trip it became clear that I must stop describing the issue to anyone who will listen and finally do something about it. After hours of research, I enlisted the help of my friend and chiropractor, Shawn Bradley of Bradley Chiropractic. The x-rays provided during my first visit showed the extent of the problem...a pelvis that was way out of balance.
Even to the x-ray illiterate this was obvious, since I was there when the x-rays were taken and remember standing perfectly upright, with feet exactly together. The process began with a total body evaluation that registers nerve function up and down the spine. This is coupled with x-rays and various other measurements documenting your current state. Over the past few weeks, Shawn has worked the tissue and muscles around the right side of the pelvis to loosen and align the fibers of the tendons and muscles. Last week I was finally allowed to perform three glute exercises that will begin to strengthen the weaker side. This has slowly correlated to pain in my left knee. I believe this pain to be a result of my body's shift back to center. The pain was very weak and quite different from the stabbing pain of IT Band Syndrome. Recently I was reading on Skurka's website under his failed attempts section (a section that continues to shrink in comparison to his successes) about a knee issue that prevented his success on the Long Trail in Vermont. Oddly enough, one of his remedies was to see a chiropractor to get his "hips realigned". Apparently it worked considering about six months later he embarked on the "The Great Western Loop". I will be off for another month or so before allowing myself to get back into hiking and cycling, but, hopefully the return will be without IT Band Syndrome.

River to River Trail: Trigg Tower to High Knob

The day finally came for our departure. We had planned, mapped, purchased, and weighed our way to the start of great trip. Headed out of STL in driving rain, listening to what would be the Cardinals second to last game of their dismal post season showing, we settled in for the long drive to Trigg Tower. Members of this trip were Todd Whaley, Paul Caudell, David Tudor, Jeff Moore, Tim Dierking, Josh Heater, Al Evans. We would meet our eighth member at Trigg Tower, John Voigts, author of the River to River Trail Pocket Guide. Arriving in the parking lot of the tower, we spotted two tents that had been setup during a lull in the storm by John for us to use that first night. We already liked him as our first impression was that of generosity. Hand shakes all around and the cars sped off for the end of the trail. The remaining few set up a couple more tents and built a fire. The fire began to pop and flames finally stretched above the highest perched logs when a neighbor from down the road spotted us and pulled in. He offered us shelter if things got bad later in the night…what did he know that we did not? As our conversation ended, the rain came on strong, taking our fire with it. We all jumped in our tents and went to sleep as the rain began to pound. We awoke the next morning to wet gear, wet tents, and the rain continuing to make sure all became equally soaked. Gear packed and compasses pointed in the right direction, we set off for our first taste of the River to River Trail. The trail was soaked and we immediately came to terms with being wet. Most had taken precautions to keep our cores dry and since the temperature was quite decent there wasn’t too much concern for getting dangerously cold. Water crossings became easier as most opted to simply motor through each one without any regard for even searching for a rock to jump on. After a few miles we came to a train crossing where we took a break from the rain. Our surroundings were slightly different from the Ozark Mountain region that we were used to, as the terrain seemed to be more open within the forest and the valleys were slightly broader, offering increased visibility. This helped with the closed in feeling from all the rain and being stuffed inside our rain jackets. We continued on westward headed for the Lusk Creek Wilderness trailhead for night one in the backcountry. However, things didn’t go as planned. Once at the trailhead, and making 18 miles for the day, we knocked on the door of the Circle B Ranch and asked the owners if they could put us up for the night. Once inside the tack shop, we got a fire going in the stove and all our gear hung from every available hook in the place. Alcohol stoves roared as our water came to life for our freeze dried meals. A group of equestrians came in with a guitar and an impromptu jam session ensued that even featured one of our own, Paul. Connie, co-owner of the Circle B, offered to take all our clothes to the dryer in her house which resulted in us continuing the music session in our underwear. They were trail angels in deed. The next morning, the rain had stopped, the sun was out, and we were dry for the first time in over 24 hours. We thanked our new friends and headed off into Lusk Creek Wilderness, stopping at features like “Saltpeter Cave” and “Secret Canyon”. These features were off of the River to River Trail and in order to get back on track we embarked on some off trail hiking that would get us to a connector trail…however…not trusting some roads we ended up miles North of where we wanted to be. Consulting the map, we decided to perform an arduous road march that would get us to our next destination, the town of Herod. Upon entering Herod we took rest in the front yard of a house that had installed a hand pump to a natural spring. We filled up on the fresh water and continued on our way. A short distance later we entered Garden of the Gods Wilderness Area. We had met some hikers on the south side of Herod who told us of a great camping spot high on a bluff a few miles into Garden of the Gods. Once we saw the site, we knew this was the spot they spoke of…and we dropped our packs having completed only about 13 miles that day. The view from our camp was long, and the smell of dinner lulled us into a lucid state. We started a fire and were able to find poor reception to listen to the final game of the Cardinals season; soon after we turned in for the night. We awoke the next morning to the bright sun, packed up, and headed out for the main attraction at Garden of the Gods. A few hours later we were climbing and jumping on the ancient sand beaches overlooking a sea of green deciduous. Lunch time came and went as the hordes of people peered fearlessly over the edges to experience the scene for themselves. A Forest Service employee named Jim talked mountain lions with us for a while and then inquired about the trail conditions we experienced over the past 38 miles. Our cars were only 6 miles away, so we took one last look and plunged back into the forest, cruising past miles of sandstone walls. The closer we got to the end, the more apparent it was that this stretch was heavily used by horses. The trail had become very muddy and rutted, with a criss-cross of paths that tried to avoid the deeper mud pits. We emerged from the forest and into a scene from the old west at High Knob campground. A combination RV and horse trailer vehicle dominated the field with tied up horses everywhere. We said hello as we passed while putting our trekking poles on pause. We made it to High Knob and took some final pictures of our packs before heading home for dinner. Our experience on the River to River Trail had come and gone, but future trips are already in the works. Thanks to Todd and John for planning the trip and leading the group through these great places. jm

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Topo Maps